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1 Cloth Embroidery
A variety of exquisite needlework, practised by the natives of India, Persia, China and Japan. Coloured pieces of cloth are cut in handsome designs and sewn together with floss silk or gold and silver thread. The work is really inlaid applique. -
2 Cloth Of Bruges
A brocaded silk fabric with gold figures, similar to cloth of Areste. -
3 Cloth Of Gold
A fabric with a pure silk ground in brocade designs, developed with gold threads. Woven at Braintree for very special purposes - Coronation robes, court dresses, church vestments, etc. The fabric is specially made as required. -
4 Cloth Of Areste
A very costly fabric of the 13th to 16th centuries, made of silk and richly decorated with gold ornament - used for church vestments. -
5 Road Cloth
A number of roads in the United States have been laid with cotton cloth as a foundation for the asphalt. The preferred fabric is an osnaburg 75-in. to 90-in. wide, with 18 ends and 18 picks per inch. The sub-grade of the road is treated with a prime cast of tar-oil. After this is dry the cloth is placed directly upon it by unrolling. Each roll overlaps the previous one about 4-in. After that the distributor deposits a layer of hot black asphalt over the cloth. A road cloth used at Burnley, Lancashire, has 51/2 ends and 51/2 picks per inch, 4's warp, 4's weft, well sized. -
6 Hair Cloth
A heavy twilled cloth containing wool waste and some calf hair. A nap is raised by gigging. Used for carriage rugs. ———————— This fabric is woven from very strong three-fold cotton warp and horsehair weft. Other material, such as linen, has been used for the warp. Usually made with about 44 ends per inch, and 80 to 100 picks per inch. The weave is usually the 5-end satin. Horse hair is not dyed, and the hair used is generally black, and is cut from both the tails and manes. The lengths vary from 30-in. to 46-in., and a single hair forms one pick. A special loom is used, fitted with mechanism for picking up the hairs and drawing them one by one into the shed. The shuttle for doing this is equipped with a pair of nippers. There is a rough fringe of hair at each selvedge. The cloth is very stiff or wiry and is used for coat linings. Formerly the cloth was also used for upholstering chairs and couches, and some is used today for this purpose (see Cilicium).
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7 Billiard Cloth
BILLIARD CLOTH, or FELTThe finest textile fabric made and is a woollen cloth of the beaver type. The wool is very carefully selected and then spun with great care. Expert weavers operate the looms which weave into cloths the thousands of very fine threads. The cloth is then milled so thoroughly that it is waterproof and capable of resisting the dampest atmosphere. The dye used is such that light has little effect upon it. The best merino wool is used, and when ready for use the cloth has a perfect level face, soft and smooth. Plain weave is used for the best grades and 3-shaft twill for others. Widths from 72-in. to 81-in. Cloth shrinks about 331/3 per cent from reed width to the finished width. An all-cotton billiard cloth is now being made and is meeting with much support. -
8 Basket Cloth
A cotton fabric of fancy matt style, with 2, 3 or 4 ends and picks working together of heavy yams.. An average cloth is made 42-in., 48-ends, 34 picks per inch, 2/20's warp, 8's weft. The line drawing gives the weave and the photograph the cloth known as Connaught embroidery cloth. Also a plain cloth woven with coloured warp and weft yams, such as black and white, red and white, in a matt weave such as 52 X 40, 16's/10's
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9 Mummy Cloth
A fabric resembling crepe, composed of silk warp and wool weft in the best qualities, with cotton warp in lower grades, and used as mourning in black because of its lustreless surface. Fine closely woven plain linen fabric used in ancient Egypt for wrapping mummies. The best examples have two-fold warp and single weft and two or three times as many warp ends as picks. One example has 140 ends and 64 picks per inch, 100's linen warp and weft. One wrapping cloth from a mummy contained 540 threads of warp per inch. Unbleached, plain woven, heavy linen or cotton fabrics, used as a ground cloth for embroidery is known as mummy. A crinkled lustreless black cloth made with cotton warp and wool weft is called momie cloth. -
10 Fireproof Cloth
Cotton cloth treated with various chemical solutions is rendered flameproof, but only asbestos is truly fireproof. For fabrics that are not to be washed, sodium tungstate, borax, boric acid, aluminium acetate or sodium silicate are used mixed with some organic salt such as gypsum, chalk, Epsom salts, china clay, alum, etc. For fabrics that are to be washed such as flannelette - A soaking in a solution of sodium stannate and then in a solution of ammonium sulphate, dried and washed, will render the material flameproof. This process forms a more or less insoluble compound on the fibre. Other compounds used are aluminium sulphate and after-treatment with desodium hydrogen phosphate, to form aluminium phosphate on the fibre (see Asbestos cloth) -
11 Leather Cloth
A kind of melton fabric, woven with cotton warp, two ends as one, and wool weft, plain weave, and generally dyed black or very dark grey. Made principally in Yorkshire with very heavy yarns, and is a cheap type of melton cloth. ———————— A fabric made from cotton to imitate leather in appearance. After being dyed and shrunk the cloth is passed through spreading machines which apply a nitro-cellulose coloured paste. If necessary several coats of paste may be applied. The fabric is then dried, the solvents evaporated, and finally embossed to simulate the grain of leather, etc. -
12 Montagnac Cloth
A curly woollen fabric with an astrakhan-like pile. It is very soft, warm and durable. It is produced in France and was first discovered in 1864. The inventor. Baron de Montagnac, discovered how to produce the material by accident - simply by soaking the cloth from the loom in water, then beating it with a heavy cane, he obtained the peculiar curly pile. The cloth is now manufactured on a large scale. Imitation Montagnac cloth is made 72-in. wide, 28 ends and 50 picks per inch, weight 29-02. per yard, from 13/4 run warp and weft. The weave is on 6 ends and 12 picks.
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13 Orleans Cloth
Also known as Lustre Orleans. It is a plain weave cloth with fine cotton warp and worsted weft. It is very closely woven and used for dress purposes. A typical cloth is made 60 ends and 140 picks per inch, 40's/56's Egyptian warp. Botany weft. This cloth was first made in 1856 by Mr. Barratt, who produced the cloth as "Summer Cloth" at the request of an American customer. He produced a plain weave cloth, diagonal twill, three-shaft twill and a crepe. -
14 Cashmere Cloth
A large trade is done in cotton cashmeres, which are generally dyed black, although colours are sometimes shown. The following are standard makes: - 56-in. full, 90 yards, 52 X 140, 36's/28's, 43-lb.; 41-in. full, 90 yards, 80 X 104, 36's/40's; 221/2-in. full, 90 yards, 78 X 114, 32's/28's, 25-lb. The weave is 2 X 1 twill, and super weft is used. Another cashmere is made with a cotton warp, which is printed before weaving, and either cotton or wool weft. Used for dress purposes. About 68 X 132, 2/60's cotton, 56's botany. The name is obtained from the Cashmere goat, whose wool was first used to make cashmeres. This wool cashmere is still made in Yorkshire. Such as 56-in., 68 X 140, 54's/18's worsted. A cashmere made for China with a few ends of coloured worsted at each selvedge is known as " Worsted Border Cashmere." A standard quality is made 36-in., 120 yard, 54 X 104, 36's/28's, 12 ends worsted each side. The cloth is dyed and has a special lustrous finish. See also Coburg, Henrietta, Jockey Cloth, Paramatta, which are all cashmeres. -
15 Covert Cloth
A woollen cloth made with two-fold warp and single weft, very closely woven. It is a fine warp twill weave, and the weft does not show on the face. Venetian coverts have a rib twill weave. For medium weight suitings and light overcoats, the warp is a two-fold marl yarn, and woven with the seven-shaft warp twill. The cloth is made 72-in. loom width to finish 58-in., 64 ends 60 picks per inch, 2/50's T., 22's W., all West of England yarns. A mottled appearance is a characteristic of this coating and is produced by the use of grandrelle yarns. -
16 Eskimo Cloth
An all-wool overcoating of the double-face variety. Woven with a 5-shaft satin face and twill back. Piece-dyed. A typical cloth is made with 28 Yorkshire skein crossband woollen warp, 30 Yorkshire skein openband woollen-face weft, 8 Yorkshire skein woollen-back weft, in 2 face, 1 back proportion. The backing warp is 2/40's cotton, yarn dyed. The cloth has 80 picks per inch and weighs about 30-oz. per yard. -
17 Grass Cloth (Canton Linen)
A plain weave fabric made in China from ramie yarns. It is woven on hand looms in coarse reeds and with few picks. The natural lustre of the yams is not interfered with, as the fabric is used in the loom state. A small quantity is dyed blue, or bleached and used for dresses, but the bulk of the cloth is used for table covers in the loom state. Widths are 15-in. or 16-in. and lengths 30 yards, made on native looms. A fabric made of yarn spun from nettle fibre was also known as grass cloth.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Grass Cloth (Canton Linen)
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18 Poncho Cloth
A Yorkshire-made cloth with heavy cotton warp and heavy wool weft. Made 56-in. and wider, with a wide coloured wool selvedge. Cross dyed and well finished. Plain or twill weaves. A style of Melton cloth. Another style is made from worsted warp and cotton weft about 72 ends and 40 picks per inch, 2/40's worsted warp, 14's cotton weft. Others have drab or brown stripes. -
19 Corselette Cloth
This is actually a brassiere cloth, but woven about 18-in. wide, with a broad selvedge as illustrated. The warping is two threads cotton and one thread rubber covered with a fine cotton thread. The take-up of the cotton ends is 100 per cent. Coarse rayon coloured weft is used, generally pink, but cream and pale blue are sometimes seen. One quality has 30 ends 2/24's cotton and 15 ends of rubber per inch, with 50 picks of 450 denier rayon. Dobby effects are used for figuring
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20 Lace Stripe Cloth
A cloth with plain weave combined with mock leno stripes and made on dobby looms. Made with 64-ends per inch of 40's T., and 52-picks per inch of 34's weft. Sometimes two-fold warp is used for the figuring.
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